Pyramid Peak, 2018

  • Date: September 15, 2018
  • Partner: Matt Odierna
  • Height: 14,018 feet
  • Range: Elk
  • Route: Northeast Ridge (Class 4)
  • Overall Distance: 8.25 miles
  • Elevation Gain: 4,500 feet (TH to summit)
  • 14ers climbed: 25 separate climbs
  • 14ers remaining: 28
  • Road Condition to Trailhead: This is a very popular destination spot in the fall in Colorado for tourists and photographers.  Hence, the logistics can be a little tricky and you should do some research online and plan ahead to avoid surprises.  Just outside of Aspen, we arrived at the ranger station after 5 PM and, after showing a NPS pass, were allowed to drive up the main paved road to the Maroon Lake trailhead.  Parking for overnight hikers is only allowed at 48 designated spots.  You will also have to fill out a backcountry tag at the check-in box at the trailhead

Pyramid Peak is a serious climb routinely ranked high among the most difficult Colorado 14ers.  This is not a walk-up; it is a true mountain climb that requires focus, route finding, comfort with exposure, and the appropriate equipment.  With this introduction being said, my mountaineering buddy Matt Odierna and I left the trailhead at around 6 PM.  We walked roughly one mile beyond Maroon Lake on a rocky, gently inclining trail until we came to the trail that turned off towards Pyramid Peak.

It was getting late and the weather was nice enough that I just throw out my sleeping bag on the ground, instead of setting up my tent.  Shooting stars came in periodically over the Maroon Bells as I drifted off to catch a few hours of sleep.

Matt and I hit the trail around 5 AM.  The weather was perfect for climbing.  The first mile of the trail was well-defined and climbed steadily up towards the entrance of a large valley.  From here, the trail stopped, and it was a sea of loose talus that stretched back towards the mountain, probably for half a mile.  Hiking poles were almost more of a nuisance rather than a help.  Also, when you are hiking in the dark with a headlamp, distance perception is not what it should be.  Watch your footing …

As the sun was coming up, we eventually made our way into what is known as “the amphitheater”, a large glacial, scoured bowl.  Across the amphitheater we went, hopping from rock-to-rock.  Once across, we had to ascend a very steep, scoured 1,000′ slope to gain the northeast ridge of the mountain.  It was slow going and I seriously wished I had brought along my Kahtoola microspikes.  By the time we crested the ridge, we had already ascended 2,800′ in a distance of about 2.5 miles.  The final approach to the conical summit of Pyramid Peak was now in full view to our right.

The rest of the climb is where things got much more serious.  The remainder of the route was a mixture of Class 3 scrambling and Class 4 moves, stretching for another half a mile and gaining another 1,000′.  We had to work together to pay close attention to cairns and the downloaded track on Matt’s GPS watch.  In several places, we had to cross narrow, highly exposed ledges or jump across gaps in the rocks.  We were careful to test footholds and handholds before bearing our weight on them.

Finally, we hit the summit, about 3 hours after setting off from camp.  It was a glorious, warm autumn day and we had epic views of the iconic Maroon Bells, with the yellowing leaves of quaking aspen scattered through the surrounding valleys.  After resting and grabbing some snacks, we started our descent.  Pyramid Peak is renowned for its resident herd of wild mountain goats and we had the good fortune of seeing several of them on our descent.

I think this post speaks for itself in terms of giving Pyramid Peak a rating.  I’d give it a 8.5 or 9 out of 10 on a scale of 14er difficulty.  This assumes good weather and dry rock.  While maybe being a touch easier than I initially thought, I would definitely say Pyramid Peak was a good challenge and easily ranks, to date, as one of the harder 14ers I have done.


Huron Peak, 2018

  • Date: August 12, 2018
  • Partner: Amandeep Vashisht
  • Height: 14,003 feet
  • Range: Sawatch
  • Route: Northwest Slopes (Class 2)
  • Overall Distance: 6.50 miles
  • Elevation Gain: 3,500 feet (TH to summit)
  • 14ers climbed: 24 separate climbs
  • 14ers remaining: 29
  • Road Condition to Trailhead: While not a terrible mountain road, the road to the Clear Creek/South Winfield trailhead definitely requires a 4WD vehicle.  From the Winfield turnoff to the trailhead is a distance of about 2 miles.  Within the first 0.5 mile, there are several areas with big dips and rocks that could potentially damage the undercarriage of a 2WD vehicle.

Joining me on this hike, was my friend Amandeep Vashisht from Baltimore, MD.  We had climbed a couple of 14ers together before so I knew she would be prepared in all phases and the conversation would be excellent 🙂  It was about 7:00 am when we set off from the trailhead.  Anytime you climb a 14er in Colorado on a summer Sunday, you can expect company and today was no exception.  There were groups of people here and there attempting the climb on this gorgeous morning.

The first mile of the hike wound its way through a coniferous forest with the trail being mostly open and having plenty of switchbacks.  At around 12,000′, the trail broke out into a large, beautiful, green meadow that ran flat for about 0.5 mile.  In autumn, I could imagine being in this meadow would be close to spectacular.  It would also be an ideal place to camp to stage a predawn climb for the next morning.

Across the meadow, the trail began to gradually ascend the summit ridge along a steep, grassy incline, turning towards the south.  So far, so good.  The crux of the climb is the final 500′ of ascent at the upper portion of the ridge.  There are some patches of boulders and the trail has a few areas that are worn smooth and slippery from use.  However, all in all, this climb is straightforward if you are in shape.

When we arrived at the summit, there were several other parties milling about.  We could see the Three Apostles clear as a bell to the south.  There were great views of sweeping valleys and lakes.  After soaking up some sun and snacks, we headed back down, carefully taking our time in the steeper sections of the trail for the first 30 minutes.

It is never easy stepping off the plane after arriving from sea level to climb a 14er, but Aman was in really good shape after doing several shakedown hikes in the Boulder area the previous several days.  We literally ran (yes, RAN) the last two miles of trail back to the car 🙂  All told, this climb will take a half-day.

Huron Peak is not a particularly formidable 14er.  In fact, I would say it likely more Class 1.5 than Class 2.  I’d give it a 2 out of 10 on a scale of 14er difficulty and would have no reservation about taking someone here for their first 14er, especially if you wanted something with a little bit more zing than the standard routes on Mt Evans or Mt Bierstadt.


Mount Shavano, 2018

  • Date: August 5, 2018
  • Partner: none
  • Height: 14,229 feet
  • Range: Sawatch
  • Route: East Slopes (Class 2)
  • Overall Distance: 9.00 miles
  • Elevation Gain: 4,600 feet (TH to summit)
  • 14ers climbed: 23 separate climbs
  • 14ers remaining: 30
  • Road Condition to Trailhead: This was an easy drive right to the Shavano/Tabeguache trailhead.  A 2WD can make it with some minor bumps the last few miles of the road.

At this point in the season, we know the drill.  I like to arrive for the climb the night before and hike in a few miles to get to the base of the mountain.  This gives me fresh legs, a head start, and less of a climb early the next morning.  So, I arrived to the trailhead at around 6 PM and headed off down the trail.  Almost immediately, it began to rain so I paused and donned my rain jacket.  The first mile of the trail was a gradual ascent over periodic stretches of rocks; no problem.  Eventually, the trail flattened out a little bit and I came to a creek crossing at ~ 10,800′.  There were several tents here with a big fire going so I continued to move up the trail.

Just as the trail hit a talus field and made a sharp turn to the right to begin a major ascent to gain access to a ridge, I bushwhacked into the woods to the left about a 100 yards and found a nice, comfortable flat stretch of ground for my camp.  While this spot is plainly visible on a good top map, here are the coordinates in case anyone reading this wants to find this on their own: 38.60929 Deg N, -106.21631 Deg E, elevation ~ 11,200′.

The rain intensified and I quickly got the tent set up and dove under my quilt.  After listening to a podcast and munching some dinner, I eventually fell asleep to a show of  thunder and lightning.

When I woke up around 5:30 AM, the inclement weather had temporarily ceased.  I quickly had a snack, packed up my day gear, and got back on the trail.  The trail climbed up onto a ridge and then finally broke out of the stunted trees into a vast valley that houses the Angel of Shavano snow field in the winter.  The target across the valley was obvious; a distinct saddle that sat at ~ 13,300′.

Now, once I crested the saddle, the final approach to the summit was obvious.  I saw several climbers ahead of me and something else — dark clouds beginning to boil up over the horizon over the summit.  I picked up my pace in order to catch up with the other climbers.  The final pitch to the summit is the crux of the climb; braided, indistinct trail that goes into a small section of boulders.  All told, the distance from the saddle to the summit was not far; perhaps not even a mile.

When I was less than 100 yards from the summit, in the thick of the boulders, I was now hiking with two other climbers.  Another guy up ahead of us yelled out  “Lightning!”  Instinctively, like a hawk flying over a prairie dog colony, the two other climbers and I dropped down onto our knees.  Sitting there for a minute, the three of us contemplated whether we should continue.  The storm that was welling up was almost on top of us and we didn’t have much time to dally in our decision making.  I am not proud to say this, but summit fever got the best of me and I pushed hard up to the summit.  It was just too close to resist its siren calls!  The wind had picked up, dark storm clouds were all around in the distance in any direction one looked, and a few lighting bolts could be seen zinging out of the clouds.  I quickly snapped a few pictures in no more than a minute’s time and then literally started to trot/run off the summit.  Pelting hail was now falling, stinging my face under my hood.  I came across another climber who asked about the weather conditions up top and, after listening to my risk assessment, without much hesitation at all, and apparently being much smarter, he turned around to head back down with me.  We made it down to the saddle in nothing flat.

The other climber’s name was Aaron (sp?), a very nice man from Evergreen, CO who was a financial advisor and planner.  We had a great conversation the whole way back to the trailhead, pausing to pick up my camp along the way.  This is the great thing about this sport — you really can meet some nice people when you are out on the trail.

So what are my overall impressions of the Mount Shavano climb?  I would say the Class 2 designation is appropriate.  I’d give this around a 3 on a scale of 14er difficulty.  In fact, for those that want something a little bit more challenging than some of the “easier” Class 1-designated 14ers around Denver, then this might be the ticket.  The trail is relatively gentle, relatively easy to find, but still a respectable 4,600′ of ascent over 9 miles of length to let you know that you truly accomplished something.  Also, since this mountain is more off the beaten path, you won’t find the heavy foot traffic as you do on some of the other 14ers.  Happy climbing!


Tabeguache Peak, 2018

  • Date: July 27-28, 2018
  • Partner: Matt Odierna
  • Height: 14,155 feet
  • Range: Sawatch
  • Route: West Ridge (Class 2)
  • Overall Distance: 8.00 miles
  • Elevation Gain: 4,000 feet (TH to summit)
  • 14ers climbed: 22 separate climbs
  • 14ers remaining: 31
  • Road Condition to Trailhead: The last 3.5 miles of the road heading to the Jennings Creek Trailhead are definitely 4WD territory.  If you try to do this in a 2WD car, there are several stretches with big rocks that will likely tear up the underside of your vehicle.

Since I am attempting to do all the 14ers as separate climbs under the Colorado Rule, I decided not to try to bag Tabeguache Peak using the standard route going up and over Mt. Shavano.  Instead, I decided to go after it using the West Ridge route.  Boy, am I glad I did.  It turns out this might be one of my favorite 14er climbs so far … it is that much fun.

Driving down to the trailhead on Friday evening, there were intermittent mountain showers here and there.  I arrived at the “trailhead” around 6 pm.  Be forewarned that it’s easy to miss this so make sure you have a good GPX file or UTM coordinates loaded on your phone or GPS.

This trail is not maintained so expect to have to pay attention and to climb over some deadfall.  The first mile is a gradual ascent through an aspen grove until the trail breaks out of the trees and tops out near a small pond, or tarn.  Here, I made a left at a cairn and started an ascent up Jennings Creek, which lies in a big, expansive valley.  Talus and boulder fields were on either side of the creek, and the valley floor had occasional patches of dense willow.  If you try this route, it is not necessary to get into the rocks.  Stay low and patiently look for the trail as it winds its way up the valley in and out of the willows.

Eventually, the willows petered out and I made my way up to a grassy bench near 12,000′, having hiked two miles.  Here, I pitched my tent, nibbled on some dinner watching the sun go down, listened to some podcasts on my phone, and waited for my climbing partner Matt to arrive later on.  Around 10:00 pm, I saw his headlamp coming up the trail.  The weather had cooled down considerably.  After he pitched his tent, we were treated to an awesome full moon display for awhile before calling it an evening.

The next morning at dawn, we began the climb out of the valley, heading towards a prominent saddle on a ridge.  Once on the ridge, you have probably a mile ridge walk east towards an obvious point (Point 13,936′).  This portion of the climb gains approximately 1,400 plus feet of elevation, so it is steep.  The trail fades and reappears multiple times over loose, crumbly rock but the goal is to go up and over the point.  The sun was now clearing the horizon and the views were spectacular; a classic Colorado ridge walk.  With Matt leading the way, we arrived at the point.

From here, we could finally see the summit of Tabeguache Peak half a mile away.   The remainder of this west ridge route turned into Class 2 scrambling.  There is a false summit along the way, but do not attempt to go up and over this.  Down climb to your right and go around it on obvious trail.  Once you have cleared the false summit, you’ll see the actual summit a couple hundred yards away.

During our climb to the summit, we saw no other climbers.  On our way back to the trailhead, we did pass about a dozen other climbers, much less of a crowd than I have seen on a 14er on a Saturday in Colorado.  I was glad we had made the decision to camp the night before and do a dawn summit attempt because by the time we arrived back at my car, dark clouds had started to build around the mountain.  In terms of overall difficulty, I’d give this route no higher than a 3.  However, I would say that in terms of overall beauty, and the overall experience, this route would be right near the top of the 14ers I have done so far.  Enjoy the pictures below 🙂


Mount Columbia, 2018

  • Date: July 20-21, 2018
  • Partner: Matt Odierna
  • Height: 14,073 feet
  • Range: Sawatch
  • Route: West Slopes (Class 2)
  • Overall Distance: 11.50 miles
  • Elevation Gain: 4,250 feet (TH to summit)
  • 14ers climbed: 21 separate climbs
  • 14ers remaining: 32
  • Road Condition to Trailhead: This trailhead is a relatively easy find from the town of Buena Vista.  The road has a couple of rough spots but the trailhead is accessible with a 2WD vehicle.

I had the opportunity to do this climb with a really nice, young man (Matt Odierna) I recently met.  Matt suggested we set ourselves up for success by backpacking to the base of the mountain the night before.  It turned out to be a great suggestion.  We arrived at the trailhead late in the evening with maybe an hour of sunlight to spare.  The weather was overcast and threatened a sprinkle of rain which never materialized.

The first section of this trail was a relatively gentle 1,500 ascent spread out across 4 miles into the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness.  Matt and I made quick work of it and just before we broke out of the tree line, we found many suitable areas to set up our tents.  After setting up camp, we ate dinner and grabbed some sleep in a beautiful Rocky Mountain evening.

Dawn came and we hit the trail shortly before 6:00 AM.  Right away, the West Slopes route gets after business and the ascent begins immediately.  The trail begins a steep climb of 2,000′ for the next mile across a large expanse of scree and bare ground.  To be honest, I had read many horror stories about this part of the route, and while it wasn’t pleasant, I did not find it as bad as advertised.  The trail braids back-and-forth in many eroded parts and there were at least some switchbacks, if only half-hearted attempts.  Off to our right, we could see a new trail being constructed by the Colorado Fourteeners Initiative and it looked like they had been making good progress.  Matt, who had completed his thru-hike of the Pacific Crest Trail last fall, was in great shape, and with him leading the way, we steadily climbed up the slope, where the trail topped out on the summit ridge at about 13,500′.  From here, we turned left and headed north along the spine.  The sun had now arisen and the views of the Colorado mountains were, of course, amazing.

The trail gently led us across a grassy alpine meadow to a few rocky projections for about 1/3rd of a mile and then we could see the final pitch to the summit.  There was a bit of boulder hopping here and there but it was an easy push to the top.  Once on top, sitting there eating our snacks, we could see a valley to the west filled with fog, and the traverse to the north all the way to Mount Harvard, another 14er.  There was a soft, cool breeze and soaking up some sun felt good.

Reversing direction, we retraced our steps, carefully made our way back down the western slope, and arrived back at camp.  After I packed up my tent and gear, we set off back to the cars and arrived around 11 AM.  By then, the lot was full of cars from other day hikers and anglers.

All told, I would say the Class 2 designation for this route is appropriate, given the climb up the western slope.  I would give this climb a 2.5-to-3 in terms of 14er difficulty.  There is nothing technical about it; it is brute force all the way 🙂


Mount Massive, 2018

  • Date: July 14, 2018
  • Partner: none
  • Height: 14,421 feet
  • Range: Sawatch
  • Route: Southwest Slopes (Class 2)
  • Overall Distance: 8.00 miles
  • Elevation Gain: 3,950 feet (TH to summit)
  • 14ers climbed: 20 separate climbs
  • 14ers remaining: 33
  • Road Condition to Trailhead: I had read up on the road conditions prior to coming over here and felt they were a bit overstated.  Any good SUV (and certainly a 4WD) can make it to the trailhead.  The last mile has a few dicey spots but nothing major.  If you come during the weekend, you might not find a parking spot.

Wow.  All I can say was that this route was beautiful.  The spring wildflowers are out in all their splendor right now.  Anywhere you look along the trail there are amazing views.

I woke up late and almost decided not to go.  However, the weather report looked clear and dry all day so I went for it.  It was 9:00 am at least before I arrived at the trailhead.  The first mile was an easy stroll through a forest before it broke out into a clearing where I could see the Southwest Slope in the distance.  Once I crossed the clearing and made a turn to the right, then things became much more serious.  The trail began to climb rapidly through a boulder field.  Fortunately, most of this was stable rock.

To me, I felt the most difficult part of this hike was between 11,500′-to-13,500′.  After the boulder field, one bumps and grinds through a broad expanse of grass going up, up, and up.  Eventually, the goal is to gain a ridgeline.  Once on top of the ridge, things flatten out a bit.  I was wearing my Hoka trail running shoes and developed hotspots on my heels, so I had to make a pitstop to slap some Leukotape on top of them.  Problem solved!

Eventually, the trail reached the summit ridge and hung a hard left to head north.  Here is where the East Slopes trail intersected mine and I saw other climbers coming up.  There was a large false summit I had to work around before I finally saw the actual summit about a 0.25 mile away.  I had to hop from boulder to boulder in a few places, but it was smooth sailing to the top.  The views from the summit are an A+; you can see Twin Lakes and Turquoise Lake clear as a bell.

All told, I really liked this hike, if for no other reason than the stunning landscapes.  I would give it around a 4 in terms of 14er difficulty.  Are there any negatives?  This mountain is the 2nd highest peak in Colorado at 14,421′.  If you don’t handle altitude well, then be forewarned.  Also, what with a mostly high alpine environment, I would imagine it would be a frightening experience to be up here in an afternoon lightning storm — keep your eye on the sky.  This was a bluebird day, so I saw hikers and climbers all along the way.  This is not a place to go for summer weekend solitude.  That being said, I had the pleasure of meeting a nice, young couple from the Denver area, Ty and Sam, and we walked out together the last ~ 30 minutes 🙂


Ellingwood Point, 2018

  • Date: July 4, 2018
  • Partner: none
  • Height: 14,042 feet
  • Range: Sangre de Cristo
  • Route: North Ridge via South Zapata Creek (Class 3)
  • Overall Distance: 11.50 miles
  • Elevation Gain: 5,500 feet (TH to summit)
  • 14ers climbed: 19 separate climbs
  • 14ers remaining: 34
  • Road Condition to Trailhead: The dirt road to the South Zapata trailhead is 3.5 miles from CO-150.  Any 2WD car can make it if they take it slow over the rocks and ruts.  There is plenty of parking at the trailhead.

This trip marked my first 14er of 2018.  I had originally meant to backpack several miles up the trail the evening before in order to get a head start the next day.  Alas, on the drive down to Alamosa from Denver, I had to take substantial detours to avoid the 11,000 acre Weston Pass fire.  It was already sunset by the time I pulled into Alamosa, so I decided to car camp instead.

There is a no-frills campground run by the BLM right at the trailhead (Zapata Falls Campground) that is perfectly located to do this hike.  I watched some thunderstorms rolling in off in the distance for a few minutes, quickly pitched my tent, and then settled in for a few hours of sleep.

I hit the trail at dawn, as the Great Sand Dunes were reflecting the first rays of the morning sun.  Pay attention when you are walking out of the trailhead not to take the side trail to Zapata Falls.  Otherwise, it is a brisk 4-mile hike up to South Zapata Lake (3,400 ascent).  The trail is clearly marked and I felt good as the temperature was cool.

When I got to the lake, I decided to head up the C2 couloir to get on top of the headwall.  This is steep Class 3 pitch with no trail.  It was filled with loose talus and scree on top of hard-packed sand.  For every two steps forward, I took one step back.  As this was my first 14er of the season, I was not in the tip-top shape I wanted to be in, so I crawled up to the top of the headwall and was a bit tired.  If you attempt this route, be sure to make a note of where you are so that you don’t inadvertently head down the much more dangerous Crossfire couloir on the way back.

From here, the route to the summit was plainly visible.  However, again no trail was evident.  I headed along the spine of the headwall to the east and picked my way as best as I could through tons of small rocks.  As the headwall rose, it bended to the south.  The sun was up in full force now and I stopped frequently to get water and rest.  When I got to a large prominent outcrop of rock, I tried skirting it to the right and it became dangerously steep.  STAY TO THE LEFT!  I backtracked several hundred yards, and got on top of the spine.  Even though there was massive exposure to the left (a 2,000′ + drop-off), I ignored it since the going was much easier.  Pulling myself up with a few good handholds here and there, I was able to get onto the summit.

From the top, I could see three other 14ers in the Sangre de Cristo mountain range.  There were several active fires I could see billowing smoke to the southeast and from time-to-time an airplane or helicopter would approach them presumably to drop water.  With the exception of a bighorn sheep, the entire time I had been hiking, I had not had any company until now —  a young couple from the university in Alamosa who had come up a different route.

Coming down entailed backtracking, slowly picking my way through the endless rocks.  Even then, a few times I lost my footing coming down the C2 couloir and took a hard fall.  Had I not had my hiking poles, it would have been miserable.  I was really relieved to make my way back to South Zapata Lake and get back on defined trail.  By now, I had been frequently drinking water to the point where I had to carefully ration out what I had left for the remainder of the hike.  When I got to the car, I guzzled a very warm bottle of water I had tossed in the backseat 🙂

There are a few spots of ascent heading back to the trailhead, so all told, I would put the total ascent on this hike at 6,000 feet.  The Class 3 designation is appropriate.  If you are in great shape and move along, you could probably do this trip in 6 hours.  If you are in reasonable shape and take a few stops for picture and snacks, then it will take you around 9 hours.  I would not recommend this climb to someone who is not in shape nor as a first 14er.  If I had to give it a 14er difficulty rating, I would say somewhere around a 6.5, maybe a 7, would be appropriate.

If you like solitude, adventure, remote country with big mountains, and camping options, then you should try this route.


Costa Rica and Nicaragua, 2017

The last few years, my attention has turned towards travel in Central America.  Given the week off during Thanksgiving, I decided to take advantage of this precious window of free time and head to the countries of Costa Rica (CR) and Nicaragua (NI).  It was a full day of flight to get to San Jose, CR from Denver by way of Atlanta.  I bunked in for the night at a hotel near the airport and then promptly headed off to the small city of Liberia, in the northwest part of the country, early the next morning.  I was in a very small plane for the short one-hour jaunt but enjoyed the 360 views of the vast expanses of hills and lush tropical rainforest.

In Liberia, I stayed at a small hotel on the outskirts of town (Hotel Javy) that was run by a very nice family.  I was treated very nicely and fed a big, homemade breakfast every morning.  The hotel was within walking distance of downtown so I spent a lot of time wandering around the city.  If you are looking to bring America with you on your travels or you like to stay in swanky beach resorts, then Liberia will not be for you.  I appreciated the city’s authenticity and the friendliness of its people.  My favorite part was the park near the town square next to an old Catholic church where many of the locals congregated late into the night.

The first day in Liberia took me south for roughly an hour to Palo Verde National Park to float the Tempisque River.  This was a leisurely float for about 2 hours along the brown waters through a tropical dry forest.  There were many different types of interesting birds along the banks.  Occasionally, crocodiles would slowly rise up out of the water.  A group of white-faced monkeys made a guest appearance at the boat, hoping for a handout of banana.

On Sunday, I went to Rincon de La Vieja National Park for a leisurely day-hike around the area.  This park is home to a couple of volcanos (which I would love to climb one day).  There were a lot of cool geological features such as mud pots and hot springs, much as you would see in Yellowstone National Park, and you could also see and hear howler monkeys in the tree canopy.  If you like hiking, then you will certainly enjoy this park.

As a fitting end to the day, I walked to the stadium in downtown Liberia to attend a soccer match between the team from Liberia and popular rival from San Jose.  If you want to witness true passion, then I encourage you to go see a major soccer match in any country in Central or South America!

The next day brought a visit to a true “cloud forest” called Tenorio Volcano National Park.  The hike was along a wonderfully beautiful, blue river called Rio Celeste.  Being in the rain forest, it was a gloomy day with drizzle but I kept my eyes open hoping to catch sight of a tapir and taking in the sights along the river.  On this day, I also got to see several different types of multicolored frogs, bats, sloths, etc.  On the way back to Liberia, I had a chance to do a small hike to Llanos de Cortez Waterfall, where several people were lounging about and swimming.  Very cool!

On Tuesday, I went to probably what might be one of the most famous landmarks in CR; that is, the active Arenal Volcano.  The driver Eithel and I first stopped at Arenal Hanging Bridges.  If you want to see a wild coatimundi, then this is the place.  This is a park where the trail includes several very long suspension walking bridges strung through the canopy.  Don’t look down if you don’t like heights 🙂  We then went to a stunning 70-meter waterfall called La Fortuna.  It’s a steep, long descent down many stairs to see it but it is completely worth the effort.

Finally, I headed out to NI the next day at 5 AM on a bus with several other tourists.  It was a long, long day but was definitely one of the highlights of the trip.  First, it was two hours to the border and then an hour of checkpoints and waiting to get across.  Once that was out of the way, we made several pitstops along the drive to see Lake Nicaragua and to shop at some local markets, where I loaded up on coffee beans.  The showstopper was a trip to Masaya Volcano National Park, almost near Managua, the capitol of NI.  It is one of those memories that will forever be etched in my mind — gazing across the chasm of the crater, with steam and gas bellowing in a column towards the sky, and lava percolating below.  Awesome.  We then went into the old city of Granada for a short boat ride into Lake Nicaragua and to browse around the city square.  Reversing course, by the time I made it back into Liberia, it was pushing midnight before my head hit the pillow.

Thanksgiving found me back in San Jose eating a dinner of beans, rice, and fried plantains, waiting until the morning to catch my flight to Los Angeles.  I gave thanks for having the time, health, and a few dollars in my pocket to be able to take this most memorable trip.  And more memories are yet to come …


Mount Princeton, 2017

  • Date: August 14, 2017
  • Partner: Xiaoen Ding, Thao Tran, Hieu Nguyen, Ngoc Nguyen
  • Height: 14,197 feet
  • Range: Sawatch
  • Route: East Slopes (Class 2)
  • Overall Distance: 6.50 miles
  • Elevation Gain: 3,200 feet
  • 14ers climbed: 18 separate climbs
  • 14ers remaining: 35
  • Road Condition to Trailhead: It is an easy drive to the 2WD trailhead out of Nathrop.  From here, things get quite a bit more serious.  First of all, stay to the right as you depart from the 2WD parking lot as it is easy to miss the road continuing up the mountain.  Then, you have a 3-mile slow slog up a steep, rutted single track road to get to the radio towers.  My Jeep Cherokee made it with careful driving and using 4WD.  There are several places to park at the radio towers if you get an early start to beat the crowd.

This hike is a deceptively long hike time-wise, even though it is not a long hike distance-wise.   From the radio towers, you’ll have about 1.5 miles going steadily uphill on a winding forest road.  A trail abruptly cuts off to your right and ascends a grassy hill.  After roughly 0.5 mile, the trail enters into a perpetual talus field.  From here, you have under 1.5 miles to reach the summit.  As it gently ascends up to meet the headwall, the trail can be hard to follow in spots.  The old trail cuts to the right and veers straight towards the summit.  The new trail has been rerouted to cut to the left and switchback up to the headwall.  Once on the headwall, things get more challenging.  The trail meanders along the spine of the headwall and becomes less defined.  You’ll be on the steepest part of the hike and picking your way through a mixture of solid Class 2 boulders and talus.  Stay on the spine all the way to the summit.

As with any 14er in Colorado, you want to keep an eye on the weather and your footing while on Mount Princeton.  People can and do die on this mountain (including one death this year).  A sobering plaque just below the summit memorializes a young woman who died at the spot after being struck by lightning.  Keep moving slowly and consistently up the mountain and then get off.  Save the resting and celebration for after you are safely down.

And now the best news for last … joining me on this hike were my international student friends from Vietnam, Thao Tran and Ngoc Nguyen (their first 14ers).  Congratulations to them on a job well done!  Also joining me was Xiaoen Ding from China (her second 14er).  Way to hang tough, Xiaoen!  Last but not least, joining me was faithful climbing partner Hieu Nguyen from Vietnam (his sixth 14er).  Hieu is becoming quite the seasoned mountaineer.

I should add that I ran into two former students from a Statistics graduate course I taught two years ago (Sam Hagopian and Jodie Daglish).  One of them had since moved to California.  Complete 1-in-1,000,000 random event!  We had a good laugh about this and enjoyed quickly catching up.  Life is full of good surprises like this 🙂


He Ran Across the Sky

It was night time and he was alone, but not lonely. He ran on the top of a very large hill on a trail worn smooth down to reddish dust and with ruts scoured by eons of erosion. The occasional crack of electricity surged across an old powerline, and heat lightning flickered across the sky, a sky that looked like a black curtain pinpricked by thousands of points of starlight. His breathing was more like panting, his throat and the top of lungs were sore from all the hours he had journeyed in the thin air. The trail twisted and turned as it moved up and down along the flow of the land and rocks and tree roots made it necessary to pay attention lest one trip and fall. He forced his pace to be regular, like that of a metronome, because it distracted him from his own tiredness as he ran across the sky.

Clock time had lost its meaning. Occasionally, a feeling of fear or anxiety entered into his mind and filled his heart with panic. Damn it, how much further to go? Damn the miles for loitering. However, he forced himself to let these feelings go for they were feelings, not facts, and to embrace them, to give them large life, meant he would have been consumed by these feelings. Let them come and let them go and don’t let the prisoners run the jail. Fear and anxiety take you out of the present moment and are the killers of dreams. He was thirsty and hungry again so he sipped the remnants of now-warm water from his bottle and he ate a small chunk of banana while he ran. Then he realized how hungry he was and was scared that he would run out of food and not be able to continue to run that night. But you can’t control what might occur any more than control the rising of the sun, so that feeling too was allowed to drift away. More than once, he caught himself training the beam of his flashlight way out in front of him to see what lay ahead but this too was to live in the future so he eventually told himself to train the flashlight only on the ground directly before him as he continued to race across the sky.

As he rhythmically bounced along his mind began to drift back to the past and all that had transpired to get him here. In what seemed like a different universe, there was point in time where he was going to run on a similar journey off in a different land. But he incurred a terrible wound and was fearful he would never run again. In short order, more walls and more hurdles arose. It was all part of the ebb and flow of life and sometimes you need to take a step back in order to take two forward. Out of all of this, he resolved himself back then to train and work as hard as he could to race across the sky, for as long as it took, vowing to never give up. Never, ever give up. Over the months, through the rain and the pain and the sun and the snow, though he stumbled, staggered, faltered, and fell, he always got back up, pressing to run a few seconds faster and a mile longer. There were those who insisted that he wouldn’t be able to run across the sky, those that offered him no support and abandoned him. But he ignored them and prepared to run across the sky anyway and felt internally stronger because of it, because regret, disappointment and bitterness are past-centered feelings that prevent you from living for today and are the killers of dreams.

He was just happy to run and as he ran he told himself “Patience and focus” over and over again like a magic mantra. This kept him focused in the present moment, the only thing over which he had a modicum of control. Realizing that all that we are and all that have is now, with no beginning nor any end. So many things that are outside of you, that are out of your control, did not matter. There were no limits and the only limits that existed were those we set on ourselves. The only thing that mattered was the moment he was living and he loved living and running was a part of his living. He recalled a favorite translated quote from Lao Tzu, in the Tao Te Ching, who said, “If you realize that all things change, there is nothing you will try to hold on to. If you aren’t afraid of dying, there is nothing you can’t achieve.” That is how he ran across the sky … one mile at a time.

Along the way, out of habit, he looked for the front two pointer stars of the Big Dipper in order to find the North Star and sought out Orion in the sky. In his mind, a soothing, stirring verse played over and over again, synchronized perfectly with his pace. Down below in a valley near Turquoise Lake was a collection of shimmering lights known as Mayqueen and it was beautiful. As the minutes passed, he focused on the sounds of his footsteps and breathing. Out in the middle of the night, out in the middle of the Colorado Rockies, he felt a surge of strength and of energy from those that had helped him prepare for the journey because they were metaphysically with him now. At this moment he was filled with gratitude and humility and felt like the luckiest man in the world. Gone was any doubt, gone were any expectations and pressure, gone like the remnant ribbons of the wind rustling through the pine trees. All through the months leading to this moment, he did what anyone would do in that darkest moment before the dawn … he clung to hope. The hope of running across the sky sustained him. Hope is a fuel for perseverance.

It was night time and he was alone, but not lonely. There was comfort in the darkness, in his aloneness, and solace in the salt of his tears. He ran up a climbing, rocky road that entered into the center of the town of Leadville. The houses and and buildings had the appearance of being shuttered up and things were strangely calm and quiet. Finally, off in the distance, he saw a small gathering of people, flashing lights, and heard crys of excitement and joy. Sarah, his unwavering friend and right hand, standing off to the side of the street, was patiently waiting and calling for him. He could stop running now for a little while. All that began long ago came to a temporary end. His run across the sky was complete and his love for himself, his friends, all of the world, and life, still remained, enduring, and refusing to fade away.

— Philip Turk